Menus without carryovers

Caf Cerise
1125 Sixth Avenue
San Diego CA 92101
(619) 595-0153


In its sophomore year, this retro-restaurant has put in place essential intangibles to ensure long-term dividends. The place looks great. They have serious fine dining. Service rates as Herculean. It makes a great first-date hideaway, just far enough from the center of activity downtown to retain anonymity but within walking distance of everything. Now if they would only learn to always offer at least a couple of dishes that produce smiles for more than 24 hours!

Caf Cerise observes an indecisive custom. Because of a proud tradition, ALL mid-day and supper offerings vary daily. The menu changes between meal times on the same afternoon and evening, no less. That means that if you had enjoyed a power lunch with clientele and were partial to an entre, theres little guarantee that you would find the same dish on another visit. That is NOT the smartest path to build a diehard base.

Between Chef Proprietor Jason Seibert and GM Paul Brockwell (who brokers the wine choices), the two need to come to an agreement to proffer best-selling meals across an entire season, alongside ever changing specials. How best am I supposed to refer readership to this cherry of a spot, without specifics Guys, we receive hundreds of emails monthly (yummydiego@cox.net), where the majority of folks planning a night out print from their home/office PCs complete copies of our reviews and CIRCLE the foods that they want reproduced. It backfires not to list even just a few permanent favorites.

Take tonights Caesar. Good gosh, it was delicious. Surely there must be a constant demand. Guest Mike Sabella and I sampled the freshest Romaine, superb Reggiano-grade Parmesan, an economic but excellent anchovy-swatted dressing, mixed with whole roasted garlic cloves and half a coddled-boiled egg. Its a keeper.

   Paul knows vineyards. Austrian winemaker Hopler bottled floral April showers into their 2003 Gruner Veltliner grape harvest. It was tangy, possessing a film of sliced cantaloupe. Lesser-traversed and quaffable/quality fruits made this one fun to try, thanks. We wouldnt have requested it, of ourselves. So nice to have a person on staff that knows their intoxicants.

   Ruby fruit was primary inspiration behind recipes and railings at Caf Cerise (cherry, in French). Built in 1903, the building is a landmark. Its 1930s early-to-mid-century banisters, cherry wood paneling, hard wood floors, minimalist art, and bi-level art deco-inspired architecture all add a classy feel to the place. From 1930-1980 there was a vegetarian eatery at this locale named House of Nutrition, to be credited for much of the dcor.

   The signature cherry brandy martini was downright felonious. Also made with natural cherry juice, explained Paul, a little bit of Triple Sec, and lemon-concentrate.

   I love the color, the sugar rim. Just a great looking drink, said Mike. It looks visually incredible and goes down really smooth. A lot of females would love it. Now in real estate, Mike used to be a Bartender.

   Soup had its own winning ensemble, du jour of winter vegetables that attained a golden sheen. Shavings of the same cheese used for the Caesar salad were generously sprinkled over the top. Mike thought it was a tad salty. For me, it was just right.

   Pork prominence began to assert its presence at Caf Cerise. Small pieces of Italian Pancetta bacon were blended into fish stock broth, for a bowl of local Black-lipped mussels and cockle clams. BEST DISH REVIEWED, the first helping of two sensational swine selections. This one begged for a nice thick bread to sop up the juices.

   Bakers at Caf Cerise were only too happy to oblige. They sent out rustic flat bread and fat foccacia. Deduction points for NOT sending out warm loaf, a custom that should be automatic at such a nice place. Of note, a majority of their offerings are fashioned in-house and NOT store bought.

   Caf Cerise experienced a somewhat unflattering review written by Neal Alexander for Riviera Magazine of San Diego, the March 2005 edition (www.modernluxury.com). Heres the part of his report that Mike and I would both dispute as standard procedure, There was the time my waiter, apparently captivated with the conversation my friend and I were having, decided to join in and share his opinions at considerable length. Each time he returned to the table thereafter, obviously considering himself my new best pal, he felt free to re-enter the conversation. Finally, I witnessed a very recent incident when someone from the kitchen left his station, approached a table, and explained to a pair of diners in an animated but exasperated fashion that a requested substitution will be provided, this one time, but please, dont expect it in the future. Mike and I were expertly attended, with zero lack of common courtesy from either front or back of the house. We observed that same professionalism exacted unto ALL of tonights guests. Remain worry free.

   In fact, initial recommendations were so good that we just went on autopilot and let Paul pick the remainder of choices. House-cured ham and cheese crepes were piglet pita paradise. High grade pured goat milk from Sonoma County factored in significantly for why the snack was met with welcomed arms. Sweet baby onion petals made a contribution, thus. Greens were dead on arrival.

   Paul must have had his reasons for why Caf Cerise decided to farm out still a third pork dish but when it arrived DOA too, we questioned the move. Sausage pocket watches and sticky egg noodles shared the limelight, with delicate segments of artichokes and Roma tomatoes. As with the absence of salad dressing earlier, Chef Jasons team were miserly here with liquid. That KILLED any chance of a good critique for this pasta plate, because sans sauce the contents were Death Valley dry.

   Recovering nicely, an entre of boneless Pacific halibut received a unanimous TWO FORKS UP. The quality of this ocean catch went unsurpassed. It rested upon a delicate bed of black olive risotto, prepared as you expect from someone who once worked under Wolfgang Puck. Chef Jason worked at Spago prior, as was the case. For chirp and color, reddened Swiss chard and sections of tomato made their way.

   This was such an excellent dish, commended Mike. Im having a hard time deciding which was better, this or the chicken.

   Free-range poultry showed a broad range of talent. Herbaceous. Featuring an olive vinaigrette, the recipe had poise. The bird was airborne/flying high, fixed with shaved squash and semi-sweet mashed Fingerling potato.

   A definite high point of its own, tableside French-pressed coffee hit the stratosphere. It has its mailing zip code at Heavens gate. At press time, Caf Cerises pits of cherries (coincidentally what ground coffee comes from, beans from a certain variety) were the best I have ever sampled. Period. Exclamation point! I could return, if only for the dessert and java.

   In tandem with the Joe, sweet tooth time was probably the most memorable part of the tour. Chef Jason wowed us with an airy honey-twanged mousse and fruit parfait. With that coffee, a one-two punch.

   Desserts SHOULD be revolved, constantly. Inherently, there ought to always be variety with the final impressions. And Caf Cerise is to be complimented for also creating a light confection. So many places offer super heavyweight division finales.

   When it comes to the principals however, future menus should keep standards in place.


www.cafecerise.com
Lunch M-F 1130am-230pm
Dinner Tues-Sat 5pm-10pm
Live Jazz every fourth Friday of each month
Tasteful attire
Catering available