Wharf Wellness

FRESH
1044 Wall Street
La Jolla CA 92037
(858) 551-7575


   Restaurateur Sami Ladeki redoubled his efforts at Fresh, much like an Angler reeling in big catches after switching lures. Previously at the same location, hed thrown money into a Nuevo Latino concept. Tamarindo was a vessel moored in tepid waters. By changing bait, hungry fish began to bite in greater numbers!

   Executive Chef Matthew Zappoli cast assorted taste treats from his tackle box. He has exclusive deals in place with fisherman, from every corner of the world. They ship to Fresh their finest haul.

   Longtime La Jolla resident and friend Jamal Altawal helped examine the seafood shipments.

   Pan seared sea scallops impressed tonights guest critic. This is a really nice recipe, he exclaimed. Very light, perfect with white wine. Barnaise sauce minus butter (reduced wine, vinegar, egg yolk, shallots and seasoning) was set beneath. Mini potato cakes were fashioned too similar to scallop appetizers featuring potato pancakes at Roppongi, also owned by Ladeki and within walking distance from Fresh. Mix things up a little between the kitchens.

   Bread service (by request only, not brought out automatically) was a mixed loaf. Server Alex Daniels brought room temperature wheat lavosh/Armenian crackers, foccacia, and basic dinner rolls. We ADORED the flatbread. Chef Matthew prepared a Middle Eastern herb garden served chopped and dry in a dipping bowl, that Alex then filled with olive oil for bread. This is Zatar, made of curry, thyme, sesame, nutmeg, clove, and oil, Alex explained. Native North African Jamal felt that the bread condiment lacked zest for his liking, though he gave the manner of service an A.

   Differing chardonnay jazz rifts resonated. 2003 Russian River Sonoma-Cutrer of Windsor, California was clarified butter for lobster. French 2002 Michel Picard harvest was a tangerine dream, far less dry.

   BEST OF THE BARRELS went to Evolution by Oregonian Sokol Blosser Winery. No less than fruit from nine vine varieties went into this balanced assembly: muller-thurgau (Swiss), sylvaner (Germanic), gewurztraminer, muscat, pinot gris, semilion, white riesling, pinot blanc and chard. Aroma from an old library book bearing pressed flower petals, with a slight scent of papaya--this was the vapor. Visit www.evolutionwine.com for the full-bodied story behind the making of this great grape gathering.

   Lobster soup was swill, not swell. It was runny, not funny. Reasoned Jamal, You dont taste the lobster. It has too much cream. Youll expect better from someone Bon Appetit Magazine dubbed One of 5 Chefs to Watch in 2005.

   Lunchtime steak salad at Fresh is a favorite among readers. Marion Gomez of Carlsbad wrote yummydiego@cox.net, Whatever the Chef at Fresh was smoking when he invented his spin on tossed greens and sliced-thin grilled beef, I want some. Pay your respects. Gorgonzola, crispy onion strings, bacon and mushrooms rounding out the battery of troops deserve a 21-gun salute. Jamal sat this one out, observing pork-free principals of faith.

   TWO FORKS UP for the herb-roasted whitefish appetizer on a raft of spinach, among a roster of 18 tapas-style small plates. Blood Orange reduction was immaculate. Send one to the Smithsonian.

   Every one of the small platters can be had for price between 4-6pm, 7 nights a week. Considering how it is normally pricier for health foods than it is for junk food, I cant tell you enough what a nice promotion this is! Your body rewards you when youre taking care of it, as well as shuts down when you resort to bad eating habits.

Trendy beet and goat cheese salad with less than inventive walnut vinaigrette could not break this roughage out of its routine. Goat milk was enjoyed however with gusto, good going.

Ricotta ravioli would garner a glowing grade from Gordon Ramsey in Hells Kitchen. Interior/exterior patterns and texture of the soft-stuffed semolina entre were smashing. The butternut squash coulis could have been a touch sweeter, in retrospect. Otherwise, we were dealt a Royal Flush.

   A winning Texas Hold Em hand also arrived in the form of grilled lamb loin. This moneymaker can be had as an opening act, or as part of a preset market menu. Beside the lamb under its current design (there are frequent changes), the five-course dinner meal also includes house-smoked salmon, the aforementioned sea scallops, balsamic/soy lacquered black cod, and choice of dessert.

   Coriander crusted Mahi Mahi was overcooked. The shrimp risotto in port reduction that accompanied the white bite was out of sight. I love this rice and sauce, praised Jamal. But man, I filled up on bread. Some of these dishes are SO big! Im stuffed.

   Shellfish stuffed rainbow trout was the BEST DISH REVIEWED and sincerely one of the all-around great recipes of its kind for fish Ive ever come across. Chef Matthew united the mighty mariscos with an emulsion comprised of lemon and thyme. No question this was number one, agreed Jamal. Loaded with vitamins, too.

   Monterrey County Mirassou 2003 Pinot Noir was boysenberry pancake syrup, tossed and turned in a cedar casing. It was rich, heavier than many. Soil dense with minerals created these grapes.

   In all, Alex who had been assigned the task of selecting our crush chose well. His skills as a Server were far above average. It was a busy night at the restaurant and all personnel pulled their own weight, including Supervisor Katie Gannon. She was observed helping out anywhere and everywhere, a skilled Surgeon.

   Bread pudding and ice cream with a cup of java was precisely what the doctor ordered, at the end of these gratifying gastronomies. Trying it for his very first time Jamal asked, What do you call this Its killer.

   Fishermen at the Fresh location are no longer crying about the one that got away, theyre making a killing. Theyve got their ships sailing in the right direction. One nutritious bite and youll be hooked.

   AHOY!


www.freshseafoodrestaurant.com
Open from 1130am, 365 days a year.
Casual attire okay.